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Carpet Cleaners, a question on urine & vomit.
What PRODUCT & SYSTEM / TOOLS, have you found most successful for FRESH, LIGHT, urine & vomit removal??

IE; Just yesterday.




System: Extraction & Bonneting?

This is for recent problems on light to moderate episodes where the sub floor has not been affected, and the pad/underlay only lightly affected.

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I know that the illustration that I am about to make is a bit crude, but it makes a point.

Imagine a dog craps in a pile in the middle of the room. One can ignore the pile and spray Febreeze on it, and unless you look at it, you may think that there is not a problem; yet there is still a pile of dog crap in the middle of the floor. The Febreeze will wear off eventually, and the smell of the poop will again be a problem.

The first order of business is to remove as much of the source as possible, then use deodorizer to deal with any remaining odors if needed. Remove the source of the problem.

As for the vomit, the clear best practice would be to extract (remove it) and deodorize/disinfect afterwards.

Smearing it around with a bonnet may break up and dilute the vomit, and you may capture a large mount in the pad. Ask yourself...  which carpet would you allow a baby to play on after you cleaned it? The one you extracted the vomit out, or the one you dealt with it using a bonnet?

Ideally, I would say the best result would be to extract first, and then finish off with a bonnet and anti-wicking encap solution.
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Mostly everyone uses Extraction cleaning. But it depends if it was a commercial place like office, it is better to go for extraction.
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Thanks given by: Lounge Lizards
I keep an ez spotter around for moments like those.

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Thanks given by: Lounge Lizards
The key to small urine jobs is to use a good product to kill bacteria in the backing and padding and soaking subfloor

The problem I have had over many years of using a truckmount and water claw and trying to flush carpet --pad --subfloor is the smell of urine still is in room after trying to flush carpet with osr products or peroxide products or enzyme products. I have tried many products from $50 a gal to $150 a gallon

If you are using some type of product and system and remove odor then stick with it.

For bad urine problems the pad has to be removed and the subfloor treated.

If  my customers did not want to pay more then $200-$300 to tear out pad and treat subfloor-- then I use a product to kill bacteria by soaking carpet where black light finds urine stains. Then removing moisture and soil with pads.
Extraction can be done with lots of microfiber glad pads....... as good as a vacuum system...those that do not agree have not used glad pads and a heavy oscillating machine on carpet. The vacuum systems do not remove all urine out of backing and padding. I have learned that from working on nylon area rugs in a shop and watching the backing and carpet dry and in homes after going back 3 days after flushing carpet and soaking with various products on the market and seeing urine stains wick back up and odor present when the carpet is soaked with urine.

I have used colloidal silver and peroxide in the past and have starting using a stabilized chlorine dioxide which does not  bleach carpets and totaly removes and kills all bacteria and odor.
I have removed cat urine odor out of a tile floor that would have been impossible to improve with the 10 other expensive odor products I have used in the past.

You will have to search for companys or supliers that offer CLO2 from the just gone systems....... down under
call  carpet cleaners warehouse in Australia
learning something new every minute Hands up Laughing
Carpet Cleaning Naples Florida
my youtube channel

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Thank you all for your replies, especially Joel. Wink 

I have been using different products, some very good, others, well..................

I have also been using different extractors, depending on the severity of the areas to be sanitized, ranging from a small Bissell spotter, to porty's & even my old truckmount.

I have even used bonnets on my orbital after final extraction in some cases to remove more moisture get a quicker dry.

But have never just used an orbital machine for complete urine removal, I just can't get my head to believe that I'm removing moisture from under the pad, etc;

What has piqued my interest in this was a product that I saw saying all you need to do was apply this & walk away.

It would destroy the bacteria, self neutralize & have no further problems with odor or stains.

Personally, I find this hard to believe, hence the question.

Out of respect for Steve, I shan't name this product, but I have asked, and named elsewhere with no replies.

Once again,  thanks   for your time & answers.

Shorty. Angel   hatsoff
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